The ideas of the print.
A history of handspun craft.
Within weaves of tradition.
A man’s wardrobe celebrating his roots.
Being Indian has always been a journey of color and indulgence. Images from landscapes, festivals, family, history you name it has been always a celebration of the vernacular art textiles, patterns and weaves that crosses the breadths of the country. From the age of the maharajas to the contemporary work styles of today, the definition of how this ethos comes into a fashion wardrobe is what I wanted to share focusing here on the craft of this special handloom tradition.
Ikat, or ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
In ikat the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The yarns are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered to create a new pattern and the yarns dyed again with another colour. This process may be repeated multiple times to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished all the bindings are removed and the yarns are woven into cloth. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as tie-dye and batik the resist is applied to the woven cloth, whereas in ikat the resist is applied to the yarns before they are woven into cloth. Because the surface design is created in the yarns rather than on the finished cloth, in ikat both fabric faces are patterned.
In a wardrobe curated here specially to celebrate the legacy, I went on a larger market survey of finding the special chevron ikat patterns that are very geometrical yet tribal and bold. Selecting them in a series of colors and using them to create a signature suit and patterned trousers this became a staple for me to showcase how the richness of Indian textiles although from time immemorial remain contemporary today. This was also surprisingly complemented by this random purchase of a Sisley jacket, in Spain with a handloom pattern created which falls into the same genre.
In the Details